Each Cook Ought to Train Here’: Humble Turkish Eatery Earns Fourth on List of London’s Leading Dining Destinations.

Whenever curating a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, situated high among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu situated in a outlying part of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

The small Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. The recognition has left the family totally surprised.

“I’m completely surprised,” remarks a proprietor, pointing to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their small restaurant achieving such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has maintained much of its original feel. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent texture.

It is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo beyond its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic achievement.